2016 BEST NEW RESTAURANT: WU CHOW

October 31, 2016

Hip (hop) meets classic Chinese at Wu Chow, the latest venture from Stuart Tomajan and C.K. Chin, the team behind Swift’s Attic.

From the tiki cocktail program to its modern interior gilded with playful bling, Wu Chow isn’t your ordinary Chinese restaurant, as it appeals to an upscale sensibility while hewing to a traditionalist’s taste. Though Chef Ji Peng Chen’s menu spans China’s eight culinary regions, it’s heavily weighted toward Sichuan. And thank peppercorns for that! You can find the anesthetizing heat in dishes like the custardy-textured braised eggplant, dan dan noodles or fried chicken.

If the tingling burn of Sichuan isn’t your thing, don’t worry: Preorder a Beijing-style roast duck (48 hours’ notice, please) or tuck into delicately pleated Shanghai soup dumplings, filled with a velvety broth. Or go for a different take on Sunday brunch with Chef Ling Qi Wu’s dim sum menu. After starting the day with turnip cakes and char sui bao, it might be hard to go back to scrambled eggs.